Good eats for tough times: 3 meals that center beans and lentils

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The price of groceries has skyrocketed. Eggs cost more than $5 a dozen. Poultry and produce costs are on the rise. For many, it’s a time to make changes in the way they shop. And while it may sound like a bit of a cliche to suggest beans and lentils to those wanting to lower their food costs, there’s a lot to recommend about them. Beans and lentils are inexpensive and offer a huge source of plant-based protein, iron and fiber. They marry well with just about any other flavor and can be adapted into soups, sauces, tacos, stews, salads, sandwiches and more.

Dried beans versus canned beans: Although canned beans and lentils have vastly improved in recent years, it’s still best (for flavor as well as economics) to buy dried beans and lentils. To soak or not to soak is a controversial question in the world of beans. Most experts say it’s not necessary, but it does cut down on the cooking time. Wash beans in cold running water and then soak them (if time allows for at least an hour and up to 24 hours) in a large bowl of fresh cold water.

If you presoaked the beans, be sure to drain them and cover with about 2 inches of fresh, cold water. You can add seasonings like bay leaf, onion, carrot, etc. Bring to a boil for about 10 minutes, reduce the heat to low, cover and simmer until the beans are just tender, but not mushy, about 1 hour to 1 ½ hours, depending on the variety. The beans are then ready to use or can be cooled in their cooking liquid and kept for up to a week.

Lentils do not need to be soaked and cook quickly. They are very popular in much of Europe, less so in the United States, and are both inexpensive and adaptable. In these three recipes, the types of beans or lentil are mostly interchangeable. You can use black beans, white beans or pinto beans. You can also substitute lentils or add beans for the lentil soup.

I’m not sure if I should call this a salad, side dish or main course. I will say, however you serve it, it’s a great combination of colors, textures and fresh spring flavors.

Broccolini is increasingly easy to find in grocery stores and farmers’ markets — it’s a cross between broccoli and Chinese broccoli, with long, thin edible stalks. You can use canned or home-cooked white beans or use lentils.

Serves 2 to 4.

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Ingredients 

For the broccolini:

• 1 bunch broccolini or 1 small head broccoli, cut into long, thick strips including the stems
• 1 small red onion, cut in 1-inch slices
• 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 tablespoons olive oil
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• Salt and pepper

For the beans:

• One 13-ounce can white cannellini beans cooked, drained, and rinsed again, or 1 ½ cups home-cooked white beans or 1 ½ cups cooked lentils
• 1 teaspoon lemon zest
• Juice of 1 large lemon, about 2 tablespoons
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Instructions

1. Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. In an ovenproof skillet or small roasting pan, toss the broccolini with the onions, garlic, olive oil, lemon zest, salt and pepper. Roast for about 20 minutes, or until the broccolini is just tender but not limp when tested with a small sharp knife.
2. Meanwhile, in a bowl, gently toss the beans with the lemon zest, lemon juice, olive oil, salt, pepper and parsley.
3. Place beans on a serving plate and top with the still-warm broccolini and onions, making sure to add all the oil from the bottom of the pan.

This soup leans to the light side, full of bright flavors from carrots, celery, leeks, and fresh dill and parsley. It is best made a day ahead of time and will keep for several days.

You can make this a vegetarian soup by using olive oil and water or create a heartier soup using bacon and chicken stock. It’s delicious either way.

Serves 4.

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Ingredients 

• 1 tablespoon olive oil, or 2 slices thick bacon
• 1 large leek, dark green section removed and white and pale green section cut in half lengthwise, washed, and then thinly sliced
• 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• 2 medium carrots, cut into small dice
• 2 ribs celery, cut into small dice
• 1 cup brown lentils (look for Italian lentils or French Puy lentils, or brown lentils. You can also use 1 cup precooked beans)
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• ½ cup chopped fresh parsley
• ⅓ cup chopped fresh dill
• 5 cups water or chicken stock
• To serve: grated Parmesan cheese, a drizzle of olive oil, and a teaspoon of sherry or white wine vinegar

Instructions 

1. If using bacon, fry the bacon slices in the bottom of a large soup pot until just crispy. Remove and drain on a paper towel. Remove all but 1 tablespoon of the bacon fat.
2. Alternately, heat the olive oil in the soup pot over low heat. Add the leeks and garlic and cook, stirring, for about 8 minutes or until the leek is tender. Add the carrot and celery and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes. Stir in the lentils, salt and pepper (go light on the salt if using canned chicken stock) and half the parsley and dill. Cook for 1 minute. Raise the heat to high and add the water or chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low and let the soup simmer partially covered for about 1 hour, or until the lentils and vegetables are tender but not mushy and overcooked. Just before serving, sprinkle in the remaining parsley and dill. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or pepper if needed.
3. If you used the bacon, cut the strips into small pieces and stir into the soup.
4. Serve hot with a dusting of Parmesan cheese on top and a drizzle of olive oil and vinegar.

Open a can (or box) of precooked beans. Saute some onions, garlic, cumin and pepper and add a sausage cut into thin chunks (chorizo or hot Italian), add a few chopped tomatoes and water and simmer. You’ve got the quickest, most flavorful taco filling or a nutritious bowl of beans and sausage and vegetables for lunch or dinner. This makes a great breakfast or brunch dish topped with a fried or poached egg.

Serves 2. You can easily double or triple the recipe if serving a crowd.

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Ingredients

• 1 large sausage, chorizo or hot Italian, about ¼ pound
• 1 ½ tablespoons olive oil
• 1 cup finely chopped red or white onion
• 2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced
• ½ to 1 teaspoon ground cumin, depending on how much you like cumin
• Dash Aleppo pepper or hot pepper sauce or chili flakes
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper
• One 13.4 ounce box or can black beans (or your favorite cooked bean), drained, rinsed in cold water and drained again
• 1 cup chopped fresh or canned whole tomatoes
• ⅓ cup finely chopped fresh cilantro or parsley
• 1 ½ tablespoons lime juice

Garnishes:

• Warm corn or flour tortillas
• Lime, cut into small wedges
• 5 radishes, thinly sliced
• ¼ cup fresh cilantro, chopped
• About ⅓ cup sour cream or crema

Instructions

1. In a medium skillet, heat the sausage with 2 cups of water and bring to a boil, flipping the sausage over from time to time. Once it boils, reduce the heat to medium and cook for 5 minutes, again flipping the sausage over once or twice. Drain the water and transfer the sausage to a cutting board. Let cool for a minute and then thinly slice.
2. In the same skillet, heat the oil over low heat. Add the onion and garlic and cook for 2 minutes. Add the cumin, Aleppo pepper, salt and pepper and cook, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir in the beans and cook for 2 minutes. Gently add the sausage slices and cook over medium heat for another 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes and cilantro and ½ cup water and cook for 5 minutes. Add the lime juice and taste for seasoning, adding more cumin, pepper, salt, pepper or lime juice as needed.
3. Serve hot on top of, or alongside, warm tortillas, topped with the radishes, cilantro, sour cream and lime wedges.

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